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1 dobby weave fabric
nTEXTIL tejido de ligamento por maquinita m -
2 dobby
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3 Bedford Cords
Fabrics having cords or ribs in the direction of the warp produced by interweaving the weft in plain or twill order with alternate groups of warp threads. The ribs may be emphasised by the addition of wadding or stuffing warp threads. Generally woven in dobby looms. All cotton, all wool or mixed. A standard cotton cloth is made 36-in., 144 X 100 per inch, 40's/50's, with 20's wadding ends. The diagram gives the weave. When the face ends X are weaving plain in one section, the face ends are lifted in the other section, this is for two picks, and then the weave is reversed. The plain ends are separated in the reed.
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Another cloth is made 30-in. from 24's warp, 36's weft, with every seventh cord made from coloured yarn. A heavy cloth is made for use as riding breeches in many qualities. Also made with wool yams. The illustration (A) shows a fancy Bedford cord for dress goods. There are ten padding cords to the inch, as shown by the broader cord stripes. These dress goods styles are made from a two-fold warp and single weft, all Egyptian yams. Fabric B is a three-colour fancy weave.
The term " London Cord " is given to a heavy cotton Bedford Cord, woven with a 2 X 1 twill face. One quality is 88 X 80 per inch, 16/20's. Frequently padding ends are used to give prominence to the cords. Bedford Cord shirtings are made from the 144 X 110 cloth, usually 33/34-in. and with coloured stripes
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4 Asticot Canvas
A dress fabric of an open weave plain style canvas with slubs in both warp and weft forming small knots. There is one slub thread to about 20 ground both ways. One form of asticot made with a cotton warp and rayon weft is fairly common. It is made 68 X 50, 32's / 150 den., the imitation slub effect is produced by a dobby; also made with slubs in the warp. -
5 Gaberdine
This term was known in the 16th century, when in the Merchant of Venice Shylock reminds Antonio that he " spat upon his Jewish gabardine," which indicates rather " a long cassock " than a cloak or mantle. Blount writes: "what is a gabardine"? "a rough Irish mantle," " a horseman's cloak," or " a long cassock." Palsgrave has " mantyll, a gabardine." Also known as Gallebardine (Italian) ———————— The gaberdine is a fabric having a whipcord effect made from worsted warp and cotton weft. It is usually woven on 11 staves as at A, in a dobby loom with a fine reed. The warp yarns are good quality botany worsted and well spun to give uniformity of surface in the finished cloth. The weft is twofold good quality cotton. Gaberdines are usually set with about twice as many ends as picks per inch. The following particulars give three typical cloths: -
as A. Set 63-in. in the loom to finish 56/7-in.
Cotton gaberdines are made in great quantities, 54-in. or wider, with super qualities of two-fold warp and weft. Some of the lower qualities have single yarns or single weft only. The 11-shaft warp face weave is mostly used, but some are made with the 3 X 1 warp twill An example of the better quality is 54-in. finished, 90 yard., 140 ends and 72 picks per inch, 2/60's T., 2/40's W. A popular quality of cotton gaberdine is made 54-in. finished, 90 yards, 172 ends and 100 picks per inch, 2/80's T., and 2/80's combed and gassed Sakel cotton. A lower variety is made 54-in. finished 90 yards, 162-ends per inch 2/60's Egyptian warp and 86 picks per inch of 24's super American weft. Both the worsted and cotton varieties are used for waterproofs and coatings. The dress goods styles are made 54-in. finished, 100 ends and 62 picks per inch 2/50's botany warp, 36's botany weft.
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6 Grenade
A French table linen made in plain weave or small dobby effects.. A fine fabric made in France of wool and silk; used for table covers.
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dobby — /dob ee/, n., pl. dobbies. 1. Brit. Dial. a fatuous person; fool. 2. Textiles. a. an attachment on a loom, used in weaving small patterns. b. Also called dobby weave. a small geometric or floral pattern produced by this attachment. c. a fabric… … Universalium
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dobby — noun (plural dobbies) Etymology: perhaps from Dobby, nickname for Robert Date: 1878 1. a loom attachment for weaving small figures 2. a fabric or figured weave made with a dobby … New Collegiate Dictionary
dobby — dob•by [[t]ˈdɒb i[/t]] n. pl. bies 1) tex an attachment on a loom, used in weaving small patterns 2) tex Also called dob′by weave . a small geometric or floral pattern produced by this attachment 3) tex a fabric having such a pattern • Etymology … From formal English to slang
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